Dreaming of Portugal? I've got several culinary recommendations to share!
Fall 2023 | Favorite Culinary Experiences - Porto, Lisbon, Lagos
For better or worse, I am a planner. I get a business, project, or travel idea in my mind, dive into research, sketch out an initial plan, and then move into refinement mode. I create a roadmap or a picture for myself, even if it is just words or a schedule on a page. I love seeing things take shape, and the feeling of accomplishment when I am able to go from the 35,000-foot high-level idea down to the details.
Travel ranks high on my list of planning favorites because, not only do I love to travel, but the process builds anticipation within me. It takes a good deal of time to research and create an itinerary, and even though sometimes it can feel slightly overwhelming, I can’t quite give it up. At least not all the way.
This Fall, I was so happy to be able to travel to Portugal with my husband. Yes, we were some of the “pent-up demand” tourists who jumped feet first over the Europe this year. It was a long-planned, canceled, then replanned trip, and the first real vacation we had taken since 2018. To say the excitement level for both of us was high is an understatement. We were like two kids, giddy with anticipation when we boarded our first flight leg departing from Raleigh.
I characterize our travel style as semi-structured while flexible. We do not like being overly scheduled - part of the fun is finding out what is just around the corner - yet having hotel and train reservations, and a few organized tours sprinkled into the itinerary is helpful and interesting. Armed with a list of possible “things to see or do” and recommended restaurants, we wander a city at will, immersing ourselves and taking it all in. We’re experienced at moving to “plan B, C, or Z,” however, when necessary or desired.
As you can imagine, food and wine experiences are a given in my travel plans. I find them to be a great way to learn about the local culture, people, and history. While in Portugal, we enjoyed a mix of self-guided wanders, organized tours, and experiences we just happened upon which are oftentimes the best! I learned many culinary-related tidbits through all of this, and here are a few:
Portuguese cuisine is simply and lovingly prepared and centers on the use of fresh, local ingredients.
A staggering number of grape varieties, along with olives, almonds, vegetables, citrus, and other fruits are grown throughout the country. Many of the grape varieties are not familiar to many of us in the US, nor are they grown in other areas of Europe.
Many world cuisines are present or woven into the Portuguese food culture.
Servings are plentiful – it’s easy to share a meal with a travel partner.
House wines are delicious, of high quality, and very reasonably priced.
While I could write entire articles on each of our favorite experiences, for now, I am sharing the following list with high-level details. This may be something you wish to file away for your own journey to Portugal.
Here’s to culinary travel experiences!
-- Chef Susan
ORGANIZED TOURS
CoolTours Douro Valley Tour
from Porto
For an experience outside of historic Porto, take this small group full-day trip into the Douro Valley. The tour includes wine, port, honey, and olive oil tastings, lunch at a scenic winery, and a short riverboat trip from the village of Pinhão. Convenient pick-up and drop-off locations within Porto are provided.
Taste of Lisboa “Lisbon Roots, Food, Cultural Walk”
Lisbon
This excellent walking tour in historic Lisbon was a favorite! Visits to local restaurants and markets are peppered with interesting cultural and historical facts shared along the way making the half-day tour a delight. Arrive hungry as stops and portions are large.
MARKETS
Bolhao Market
Porto
Enjoy this open-air market, which is a tribute to the culinary culture of Porto. Fresh local produce and other culinary goods are available undercover on the first floor, with 10 restaurants available to tempt your tastebuds on the second floor, many owned by or featuring renowned chefs.
Time Out Lisboa Market
Lisbon
Visit this excellent local farmers market and adjacent upscale food hall with indoor and outdoor dining options. Pick up fresh produce and other specialty food products, or dine or sip at one of the wonderful 26 restaurants and 8 bars. There is even live music in the evenings. Or, how about participating in a cooking class taught by a local chef? It’s all here, and not to be missed.
Mercado Municipal de Lagos
Lagos
This colorful market is the smallest one we visited while in Portugal, yet mighty nonetheless! Two floors offer locally grown, caught, or made food products – fresh fish and seafood are available on the first floor, with vegetables, fruit, nuts, olive oil, and other culinary items on the second. The third floor houses a delightful restaurant with a beautiful terrace providing views of the town and sea.
WINE AND PORT TASTING EXPERIENCES
La Do Wine Bar
R. da Fonte Taurina 89, 4050-270
Porto, Portugal
We happened upon this cozy find and were warmly welcomed by very knowledgeable staff who love sharing local, small-production wines and ports from the Douro Valley. We learned about and sampled white port – a new find for both of us - along with other wonderful wines. Booking a tasting is advisable, or stop in for a glass. Delicious cheese and charcuterie are also available for purchase.
Port Wine Lodges
Vila Nova de Gaia
Porto, Portugal
Walk, take an Uber or taxi, or ride the Hop On-Hop Off bus across the Douro River from Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia to visit any of the port wine lodges housed there. Reservations are required for most tours and tastings so plan ahead or enlist the help of hotel staff. We visited and enjoyed our time at Taylor Fladgate Port Wine Cellar, where no reservations are required.
Monte da Casteleja Winery
Cx Postal 3002-I, 8600-317
Lagos, Portugal
While in Lagos, we thoroughly enjoyed an afternoon visit to this local winery for a tour and tasting paired with tapas. The owner and winemaker are passionate about crafting high-quality organic wines from a variety of grapes grown on the property. Advanced reservations are required; contact the winery directly. The winery is an easy taxi or Uber ride from old town Lagos.
RESTAURANTS
PORTO
Cantinho do Avillez
Rua Mouzinho da Silveira, 166
Porto, Porto 4050-416
Make plans to enjoy the exquisite food from celebrated Portuguese chef, Jose Avillez, at one of his restaurants throughout Portugal. We chose Cantinho do Avillez in Porto and were absolutely not disappointed. From start to finish, our meals were excellent and the service was impeccable. Reservations are strongly recommended.
Restaurante Praia da Luz
R. Cel. Raúl Peres, 4150-155
Porto, Portugal
Our very friendly and helpful hotel concierge highly recommended this gem to us as part of a day of exploring outside of historic Porto. The restaurant is tucked off the main road down on the beach (Praia da Luz) and has several seating options to choose from. The upstairs restaurant is a bit more formal and requires reservations. Downstairs at beach level, you’ll find a more casual indoor restaurant and bar, with additional casual seating outdoors along the beach. Seating downstairs and outdoors is first-come, first-served. We snagged a window table overlooking the beach indoors downstairs, where we enjoyed a delectable meal to match the beautiful view. The restaurant can be busy and crowded; plan on waiting for non-reservation tables.
Escama
R. de Mouzinho da Silveira 203, 4050-417
Porto, Portugal
Located in a bustling area of historic Porto, this chic, upscale restaurant offers excellent food with a seafood focus and wonderful service. Reservations are strongly recommended; walk-ins are accommodated as availability allows.
LISBON
Restaurante Camidas de Santiago
Largo do Contador Mor 21, 1100-387
Lisboa, Portugal
After a memorable lunch during our first visit to Lisbon several years ago, we decided to return to this small restaurant on this latest trip. Located in the heart of the Alfama district, it offers delicious, simply prepared traditional Portuguese meals with lovely outdoor seating.
Chapito a Mesa
Costa do Catelo 7
Lisbon, Portugal
This fun and funky restaurant feels off the beaten path as one enters through a shop, and then descends a stairway that opens to spectacular views. Two seating spaces are provided - an open-air patio, and a semi-enclosed space with panoramic views of the river and city. Sunsets are particularly beautiful from this space. Enjoy delicious, traditional Portuguese dishes with a twist. Walk-ins are welcome; reservations are recommended.
LAGOS
7 Hills Indian Restaurant
R. da Vedoria 4, 8600-552
Lagos, Portugal
Indian cuisine is popular in Portugal and 7 Hills Indian Restaurant in Lagos did not disappoint. We visited on a busy Saturday night (reservations highly recommended) and enjoyed attentive service and a very memorable meal. The flavors were enticing with a slight twist on ingredients used based on our experience of Indian cuisine. It was a delightful experience all around and a place we highly recommend.
Café do Mar Restaurant and Bar (also referred to as Mar)
Praia dos Estudantes, Av. dos Descobrimentos, 8600-465
Lagos, Portugal
This restaurant provided a very special introduction to Lagos for us on our first night in town. We were able to snag a table outdoors overlooking the bluffs and the sea, then enjoyed an excellent meal with wine. The ingredients were fresh, locally sourced, and wonderfully prepared. Walk-ins are welcome but reservations are recommended.
Mimar Café
Rua Antonio Barbosa Viana 27
Lagos, Portugal
This cozy restaurant and wine bar in the old town section specializes in Portuguese dishes and tapas and offers vegetarian and vegan options. The service was attentive and helpful, and seating choices included an indoor area plus the outdoor street terrace (walking alleyway). Reservations are not required but are recommended for busy evenings and weekends.
We are traveling to Lisbon soon and I really appreciate this detailed information!